When does the weekly mantainence service start?
The weekly maintainence service starts after Memorial day and runs through Labor day. If you need a cleaning before that we can schedule it in.
How often should I test my water?
We recommend that you test your pool water at least once a week. Ph and alkalinity fluctuates with rain, bather loads, etc.
Why is my gray pool finish changing?
The shading of a pool finish is known as mottling, and distinct from surface stains and deposits, mottling may appear as grayish hued areas. Rarely do I see a plaster job that is white like milk. They're usually white like clouds. Being a natural product, mottling is inherent in any plaster job and should not be considered a defect. There has been much research on the subject in recent years, however no consensus has been reached on the causes and cure of mottling.
My plaster finish looks bad what do I do?
Your pool may need to be re-plastered. The pool is drained and acid etched several times. Chipping and cutting around all fittings and under the tile allows the new coat to be feathered. A scratch coat is applied first, followed by a finish coat. The pool is filled immediately; the plaster cures underwater. The surface must then be brushed twice daily, with vacuuming and continuous filtering to remove the plaster dust. Cost for a replaster is based on surface square footage.
Once upon a time, plasterers would plaster a pool In any color, as long as it was white. Black or gray plaster is now becoming more common, and other colored additives can produce varied color effects. Any colored plaster will show more mottling than white pools, however. If you plaster in any color other than white, expect streaking and uneven hues. Don't expect flat black color, for example.
What are the small cracks in my plaster from?
Known as crazing or checking, the tiny, barely visible cracks are usually caused by extreme temperature variations, especially during initial curing. These are not actually cracks, and pose no structural hazard or danger of leaking. Acid washing could remove the crazed layer. Larger cracks should be cut out in a butterfly or dovetail fashion with a 4" or 7" grinder, and filled with a plaster patch mix or a flexible sealant can be used where further movement is suspected.
Is my plaster stained?
Different from mottling, stains are usually localized and distinct in color from the plaster. Most stains are caused by heavy metal minerals coming out of solution and depositing themselves on the nearest structure they find. They may also remain suspended in water, providing dramatic new color schemes :-). Below is a chart listing common metals found in pools, where they came from, and their identifying colors
METAL SOURCES COLORS
Calcium Plaster, grout, mortar, white crystals or precipitate
cal-hypo chlorine shock
Cobalt Fiberglass shells red, blue, gray or black
Copper Copper algaecides, ionizers, blue, green & blue/green
corrosion of copper and brass black, dark red or teal
pipes, fittings and heaters
Iron Well water, corrosion of iron dark red, brown, black,
pipe and fittings gray or green
Manganese Well water pink, red, black or red
If any of the above causes apply to you, your pool should be using a sequestering agent which aids your water balance in preventing the metal from dropping out of solution and staining underwater surfaces. Most stains left by precipitated metals can be removed by one form or another. An acid wash every few years will keep a pool looking nice.
What should my Alkalinity reading be?
Alkalinity should be kept between 80-120 ppm. Lower levels may etch your plaster, which provides a safe harbor for dirt and algae to grow, isn't attractive and is rough to the touch.
What should my calcium hardness be?
Keep your calcium hardness levels between 200-400 ppm. A level that is above this may find it easy to precipitate out of solution. This is known as a scaling condition. Conversely, water with low levels of hardness will produce an aggressive condition. In aggressive conditions (soft water), the water will take the calcium it wants directly out of your plaster, resulting in plaster breakdown and bond failure.
Do I still need to use chlorine with Nature2? Why?
Yes, you need to use a small amount of residual oxidizer. With the Nature2 system* you can reduce the clorine level to just 0.5ppm. We recommend low levels of free chlorine (0.5 PPM free chlorine minimum). You won't feel, smell or be affected by chlorine at this level.
*The Nature2 system consists of the patented Nature2 technology used in conjunction with a chlorine delivery device or 0.5ppm of an EPA registered pool product.
What is Nature2?
Nature2 is a water sanitization technology for swimming pools and spas that gives crystal clear and the clearest water imaginable.
How does Nature2 work?
Nature2 Technology products use minerals to destroy bacteria and algae. Because Nature2 destroys bacteria and algae, less harsh chemicals are needed to keep your pool or spa water balanced.
By using Nature2, you reduce the level of chlorine use to just 0.5ppm versus the levels you would need without Nature2.
What Nature2 does.
Nature2 is the only sanitizer that guarantees all this.
- Destroys bacteria and algae
- Reduces potential for stinging eyes, skin irritation and unpleasant odors
- Reduces chlorine use to just 0.5ppm
- Lower chlorine levels help keep the pool pH balanced
- Will not damage your pool equipment
- Easy installation
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Why use Pool Perfect +PHOSfree?
Your pool water is constantly being invaded by phosphates.
What are phosphates, you ask?
Phosphates are a primary nutrient or food source for algae*.
If you starve algae of this important food source, it cannot grow.
Phosphates enter your pool from a variety of sources, including:
• lawn & garden fertilizers
• chemicals & cleaners
• rainwater & fill water
• body fluids & waste
• decaying vegetation
and the list goes on…
These phosphates build-up in your pool water, providing a necessary food source and bloom environment for algae. Typically, algae is treated with harsh chemicals like algaecides or other sanitizing products.
This is where Pool Perfect+PHOSfree shines. Natural Chemistry has developed a regular maintenance program to continually remove phosphates as they enter the water. The program works in conjunction with the enzyme-based Pool Perfect; combining the benefits of both products into an easy maintenance program for swimming pool owners. While the PHOSfree removes the phosphates, the natural enzymes gently biodegrade organic material in the pool water.
Another great benefit to Pool Perfect+PHOSfree is it is gentle on the skin, non-toxic and 100% safe for your family and the environment!
What are your pool Chemistry Guidelines?
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Suggested Pool Chemistry Levels |
Action Required to Raise |
Action Required to Lower |
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pH 7.2 to 7.6 |
Add Soda Ash2 |
Add Muriatic Acid or Sodium Bisulphate |
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Total Alkalinity 80 to 120 ppm |
Add Sodium Bicarbonate |
Add Muriatic Acid |
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Chlorine (unstablized) 0.3 to 1 ppm |
Add Chlorine Chemical |
No action - chlorine will naturally dissipate |
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Chlorine (stablized) 1.0 to 3.0 ppm |
Add Chlorine Chemical |
No action - chlorine will naturally dissipate |
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Chlorine Stabilizer (Cyanuric Acid) 40 to 70 ppm |
Add Stabilizer |
Dilution - partially drain and refill pool water that has not been treated with Cyanuric Acid |
What is Ionization?
An ion is an atom, or group of atoms that possess an electrical charge. Ions exist everywhere and your pool is full of ions. It was discovered long ago that copper ions behave as an algaestat, that is, they inhibit algae growth, while silver ions behave as a bactericide, that is, they kill bacteria.
An ionizer is a device that uses electricity to produce these metal ions right in the plumbing, so they are dispersed into the water to do their work. Copper and/or silver electrodes are energized with a low voltage, DC current supplied from the equipment sub panel. The voltage is applied to two metallic electrodes placed in close proximity to each other within the plumbing pipe. The electrical current causes atoms of the copper or silver electrode to lose an electron and become cations. These cations are drawn towards the opposite electrode, but are swept away by the rushing water passing by. After this introduction in the water, these ions float dissolved in water until they encounter a microorganism.
Ionization is not a stand alone sanitizer. It cannot oxidize organic matter effectively, so additional chlorine or non chlorine shock treatment is necessary. There also is the potential for staining of interior surfaces. Copper can deposit itself on these surfaces, giving a blue-green color, {which isn't too bad to look at, some pool people like the color} Silver can react with sunlight, similar to the way photographs are produced, and create black stains on the plaster.
Ionizers can reduce reliance on traditional chemicals, or provide additional power to your sanitation program.
What Is Diatomaceous Earth? DE
The filtering medium of the DE filter, this dry powder is the fossilized remains of the ancient plankton, diatom.
Why does the Polaris run on its side?
If your bag is full of debris it may affect how your cleaner operates. Make sure you empty the filter bag regularly. Check for water in the head float by removing it from the cleaner and shaking it. If there is water in the float, replace it (part #A-20). Finally, make sure your float hose is floating and not sagging.
Why doesn’t my Polaris 380 climb the walls?
Your Polaris 380 cleaner needs to operate at a minimum number of wheel revolutions per minute. The optimal range is between 28-32 RPM. It is easy to check the RPM by bringing the cleaner to the edge of the pool keeping it submerged. Turn it so the single side wheel is up (make sure you hold on to the sweep hose so you will not get wet). Mark the single wheel or place a leaf or twig under the tire as a starting point; count the revolutions of the marked wheel for exactly one minute, beginning after the Polaris has completed a back-up cycle (back-up jet off). Next make sure the head float is pushed as close to the feed pipe as possible. The thrust jet should be positioned between 11:00 and 1:00 o’clock for the maximum climbing ability. Turn your Polaris 380 off, remove it from the water and spin each wheel to verify that all wheels spin together. Also, it is very important that you keep the filter screen in the quick disconnect clean. If there is any debris in the screen, gently rinse it with water. Finally, turn the cleaner upside down (while cleaner is operating) and check to make sure your Polaris 380 has 3 distinct streams of water shooting into the bag. If any of streams are obstructed, then consult you pool professional for assistance.
Why doesn’t my Polaris clean the entire pool?
Your Polaris cleaner requires a minimum number of wheel revolutions per minute. The optimal range is between 28-32 RPM. It is easy to check the RPM by bringing the cleaner to the edge of the pool keeping it submerged. Turn it so the single side wheel is up (make sure you hold on to the sweep hose so you will not get wet). Mark the single wheel or place a leaf or twig under the tire as a starting point; count the revolutions of the marked wheel for exactly one minute, beginning after the Polaris has completed a back-up cycle (back-up jet off). If your wheel RPM is in the correct range, you will need to make sure your back-up valve is cycling. Hold the back up valve out of the water and watch the back up jet to make sure it turns on and turns off. This jet should be off longer than it is on. Turn off your Polaris 380, remove it from the water and spin each wheel to verify that all wheels spin together. It is also important to make sure the feed hose reaches within 6” of the farthest point of the pool. Finally, check your thrust jet located on the back of your cleaner; it should be in the eleven o’clock position.
Why does my Polaris 380 move too slowly?
First, make sure your filter pump is operating then turn on your booster pump, either manually or by a time clock. Your Polaris cleaner requires a minimum number of wheel revolutions per minute. The optimal range is between 28-32 RPM. It is easy to check the RPM by bringing the cleaner to the edge of the pool keeping it submerged. Turn it so the single side wheel is up (make sure you hold on to the sweep hose so you will not get wet). Mark the single wheel or place a leaf or twig under the tire as a starting point; count the revolutions of the marked wheel for exactly one minute, beginning after the Polaris has completed a back-up cycle (back-up jet off). It is very important that you keep the filter screen in the quick disconnect clean. Gently rinse any debris from the filter screen. Also, you will need to verify that your hose swivels and nuts are securely attached to your feed hose pieces to prevent any water pressure loss which can cause your cleaner to move too slowly. Next is your back-up valve is cycling? To check hold the back up valve out of the water and watch the back up jet to make sure it turns on and turns off. This jet should be off longer than it is on. Finally, turn the cleaner upside down and check to make sure your Polaris 380 has 3 distinct streams of water shooting into the bag. If any of streams are obstructed, then consult you pool professional for assistance.
Why does the Polaris’ sweep hose spray water out of the pool?
There are three things that can cause your Polaris to spray water out of the pool. First, your sweep hose scrubber may be worn or missing. You can replace it by purchasing part #9-100-3105. Secondly, your sweep hose could be operating too fast. The sweep hose should be moving in a gentle sweeping motion. You can adjust the motion of your sweep hose by turning the adjustment screw until it slows down to a gentle sweeping motion. Finally, it might be necessary to add a sweep hose weight (part #B-2) to keep your hose from spraying water.
Why does my Polaris 380’s sweep hose get sucked into the vacuum tube?
The sweep hose should be moving in a gentle sweeping motion. You can adjust its motion by turning the adjustment screw until it slows down to a gentle sweeping motion. Also, verify that your sweep hose scrubber is not blocking the opening at the end of the sweep hose. If it is, move the scrubber so that it will not block this opening.
Why does my feed hose tangle or tie itself in knots?
To prevent your Polaris 380 from tying itself up in knots the hose length and float placement needs to be correct. The clear hose should be cut to the greatest depth of your pool and the entire feed hose (1 clear and 2 white sections) should reach within 6” of the farthest point of the pool. If your hose needs to be cut, please refer to your owner’s manual for detailed instructions. Next you will need to check float placement. The clear hose should have one float behind the back-up valve and another float upstream 2-3 feet (toward the pool wall). On the 2 white hoses the floats should be no less than 1-1/2 feet and no more than 3 feet apart. Once you have verified that the hose and floats are properly cut and placed, you will also need to make sure your back-up valve is cycling. Hold the back up valve out of the water and watch the back up jet to make sure it turns on and turns off. This jet should be off longer than it is on. Your Polaris 380 cleaner requires a minimum number of wheel revolutions per minute. The optimal range is between 28-32 RPM. It is easy to check the RPM by bringing the cleaner to the edge of the pool keeping it submerged. Turn it so the single side wheel is up (make sure you hold on to the sweep hose so you will not get wet). Mark the single wheel or place a leaf or twig under the tire as a starting point; count the revolutions of the marked wheel for exactly one minute, beginning after the Polaris has completed a back-up cycle (back-up jet off). Finally, the swivels that connect the hose to the cleaner and the hose sections to each other, need to turn freely and the flow arrows must be pointing toward the cleaner.
What is the Efficiency of A Raypak heater?
Raypak's pool and spa heaters run at about 81 to 83 % Thermal Efficiency, (the amount of energy that actually heats the water). Raypak's residential appliances have the highest efficiency that we can provide without creating rapid wear from
the corrosive effects of condensation.
Pool products that have efficiencies in excess of 95% are also available from Raypak. These products are available through our commercial pool distributors. These are commercial grade appliances, and are not normally found on residential applications. High efficiency heaters are much more expensive than typical residential heaters,
like the Raypak RP2100 series of heaters.
How do I know the date of manufacture or model of my Raypak heater?
The heater's model and serial numbers are located on the rating plate found on the inside of the unit. To locate the rating plate, first loosen the door screw. Remove the door(s), pull up and out. The rating plate will be either a gold or silver color with the Raypak logo. The serial number will have 10 digits. The date code is found in the first four digits of the serial number, for example, a unit made in April of 2001 will have the first four digits read as 0104.
The model number will have both numbers and letters, such as: PR-335B-EN
Where can I get a copy of my Aqualink owners manual?
You can visit jandy on the internet at www.jandy.com or click here for the manual.
My pump is running too hot and cutting off?
This may be caused by insufficient power due to an undersized or long power wires. All wires should be according to code requirements and the motor manufacturer's recommendations.
Your local power supply may be suffering a power drop. For example: during a heat wave when every possible cooling appliance has been turned on in your area, your pump may be starved of the power it requires to run cool. Restart your pump when the weather cools to confirm that the problem is in the motor.
Your pump has a thermal overload, which will shut the motor off when it gets too hot, and it will restart itself once it has cooled down.
why is my filter pump is noisy?
This may be normal since they produce water flow. The motor has a cooling fan internally which can be heard to a certain degree. It is advisable not to locate any pool pump under someone's bedroom window. The pump's sounds can be caused by vibrations between the pump base and the base or concrete pad it is sitting on. A piece of old carpet or rubber between the pump and base may quiet the sound.
The bearings may be noisy due to normal wear. Feeding high concentrations of chemical tablets in the skimmer will cause corrosive damage to the pump seal, which can leak and damage the motor bearings. It is recommended to get the bearings replaced by a qualified motor repair shop. Also, cavitation due to improper suction line sizing, leaks in the piping, a blockage in the suction line, or a low level of pool water will cause higher than normal sound.
Why are bubbles coming into the pool?
The strainer cover is loose or the gasket is damaged; check and replace the cover or gasket if necessary.
- The pool water level may be too low allowing air to mix with water through the skimmer, you will need to raise the water level.
- The skimmer weir, sometimes called the flapper, may be stuck in the up position, allowing air to mix with water in the suction line.
- There can be a leak at any connection in the suction piping or a leak inside any suction side valve at the stem o-ring.
- Also, there may be a leak in the underground piping, caused by a loose joint, or termites/ants that will chew into some flexible piping.
My pump is running, but there is no pressure. Why?
many pool owners use this term when in fact they really mean they have lots of pressure but their flow is very low. This is caused by a dirty or clogged filter, a blocked return line, or a valve that is shut off or partially shut on the return piping.
The pump's impeller may be clogged with debris. Check by first shutting off the pump. Remove the basket and check the impeller by putting your finger into the suction hole found in the pump strainer housing. If the seal is broken, replace it. For seal change instructions on Hayward pumps, refer to your Owner's Manual that is supplied with your pump (also available online under the product page for your pump), or contact Pinto pools.
My pump will not prime. Why?
Check for each of the folowing:
- You may have a suction leak if there is not enough water in the strainer housing.
- You can have a leak at any joint especially at the first fitting that is screwed into the strainer housing.
- The strainer cover may be loose or an o-ring under the strainer housing cover may be worn.
- You may have clogged suction piping, which is caused by items that get sucked through the skimmer into the piping, usually lodging at any turn in the piping.
- Sometimes when the pump starts, a small stone or debris by-passes the pump basket it will break the impeller.
- The pump may be located above the pool water level or may be too far from the pool, requiring longer periods to prime. The ideal situation is to locate the pump at or just slightly above water level, 8 feet maximum, and as close to the pool as possible, approximately 10 - 20 feet maximum.
My pump doesn't run
Check the power, breakers, switches, etc. If you have a timer on the system, make sure it is working properly.
My DE filter is running at high pressures and has a slow
The DE filter is loaded with too much debris or algae and needs backwashing or regeneration. If this problem persists and you notice the filter gauge pressure risingt from 7 - 10 psi above your beginning pressure, you need to regenerate your filter. Refer to your Owner's Guide for further instructions or consult your pool dealer for service.
Your pump output might exceed the design flow rate of the filter. Make sure the pump is correctly sized for your filter.
If there is algae in the pool, super chlorinate, backwash or bump/drain and recharge as needed. Make sure you are properly backwashing on your vertical grid filter. Refer to your Owner's Manuals for instructions (Owner's Manuals) are available online under the product page for your filter).
My DE filter short cycles even after I backwash or
- The filter elements may be clogged because of an accumulation of chemical deposits. Clogging is accelerated if chemicals are fed through the skimmer, operating your filter too long without DE after starting the pump, or operating the filter without DE. DE must be added as soon as the filter is full of water, and the pump is putting out a steady stream of water. Refer to your Owner's Guide for the amount of DE your filter requires.
My DE filter is leaking back into the pool
Be sure that the suspected material on the pool floor is actually DE. Pollen, chemical residue and plaster dust often look like DE.
You may have a tear in your filter elements, replace if necessary. Make sure that you assemble the internal parts properly!
Check for air leaks, as this will cause the system to leak DE back into the pool. If there are air leaks, install a check valve between the pump and the filter valve.
My DE filter has short cycles when vacuuming
This is normal if the pool contains very dirty water. Backwash or regenerate and recharge more often. If there is a presence of live algae, add enough chlorine sanitizer to control this growth, then vacuum. The presence of alum or floccing agents will clog the filter. Vacuum so as to bypass the filter. Do not use floccing agents with DE filters.
Will backwashing or regenerating my DE filter
No, you must thoroughly clean the elements at least once a year. You can clean your filter elements using automatic dishwasher detergent. Remove the elements from the filter, according to the instructions in your Owner's Guide, and hose them off with a forceful stream of water from your garden hose. Fill a large plastic container with the detergent, using about a 1/2 cup and warm water. Soak the elements for approximately 3 - 4 hours. After soaking, rinse off the elements again. Re-assemble your filter according to the instructions in your Owner's Guide. Note:do not soak elements in muriatic if the pool uses Biguanide products. This will damage the filter.
You may choose to clean the elements with muriatic acid or other commercial filter element cleaners, mix according to the package instructions. Use extreme caution when handling any cleaning agents, as they can be harmful to the eyes, skin and clothing. After cleaning, thoroughly rinse all elements with cold water.
How often do I need to change the DE?
Whenever you backwash your DE filter allowing the dirt and DE out the waste line or when you regenerate and drain your Perflex or ReGenX filter.
What is a Salt Pool??
What is A Salt Pool??
Advances in Auto Chlorine Generation
Keeping the water in your pool sanitized and crystal clear is now easier than ever. Salt chlorine generators use common table salt to produce all the chlorine your pool needs. New IntelliChlor™ from Pentair provides this convenience and goes further. Its built-in, user-friendly controls make managing your pool’s chlorine level easier and more foolproof than older systems—in fact, chlorine adjustment is as straightforward as pressing two buttons.
Getting started with IntelliChlor is simple. Ordinary table salt is added to your pool water…less than a teaspoon of salt per gallon of pool water is all that’s required. As the dissolved salt flows through the generator cell, it is electrolytically converted to pure chlorine, which is then distributed throughout the pool, sanitizing the water, keeping it fresh, clear, and safe. Plus pool water feels softer and silkier.
Just how much more convenient is a chlorine generator for sanitizing your pool? Unlike conventional chlorine additives that must be constantly replenished, the salt used by a chlorine generator is recycled continuously, day after day, reducing pool maintenance requirements. You never need to purchase, store, or handle chlorine, and there is usually no need to add balancing chemicals.
Monitoring chlorine production in your pool is simple with IntelliChlor. It’s the only chlorine generator with all controls and displays built into the cell—and the only one providing so much helpful feedback to you. Its easy-to-view displays allow you to quickly check salt levels, cell cleanliness, sanitizer output, and water flow. It takes out all the guesswork by letting you know when to add salt, and you can easily adjust chlorine output by pressing either the “less” or “more” button.
“Strong chlorine smell are a thing of the past.”
Strong chlorine smell, red eyes, itchy skin, and bleached out bathing suits are a thing of the past with an automatic chlorine generator. While most people blame chlorine for these problems, they are actually caused by other additives in the standard chlorine you buy at retail. These extra elements alter the water chemistry, requiring the pool owner to adjust the pH, alkalinity, and other levels in the pool. The IntelliChlor creates pure chlorine with no other additives, and therefore does not alter the water chemistry, resulting in a clear, carefree pool.
Another undesirable element in pools is chloramines, a chlorine by-product. Chloramines form when active, sanitizing chlorine combines with ammonia compounds in the pool—for example, perspiration. Their presence is noted by a strong chlorine odor. The IntelliChlor super-chlorinates the water as it passes through the cell, eliminating chloramines and their irritating side effects, making your pool experience much more enjoyable. www.pentairpool.com
What is Ozone?
- Ozone is "active oxygen", nature's special molecule (an ozone molecule consists of three oxygen atoms).
- Ozone is created in nature by the combination of oxygen in the air and ultraviolet rays or by the electrical discharge during a lightning storm.
- Ozone is a natural purifier (meaning no harmful chemical by-products are created during purification)
- Ozone has a clean, fresh scent noticed after a rainstorm.
- Ozone is the most powerful oxidizer that can be safely used in a swimming pool or spa.
- Ozone is the alternative water purifier to traditional pool/spa chemicals such as chlorine and bromine.
Click here for a complete lesson on Ozone
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